ankara
it has been more than three years i call ankara home, and honestly, it is one of the most interesting places to see in turkey. to an outsider, it might initially seem quite boring compared to istanbul or antalya. yet for a local, the city has a lot in its store, constantly offering new layers to uncover and enjoy.
despite historically lacking rich natural resources, its strategic position at the heart of the anatolian peninsula made ankara the key to the rise and fall of many civilisations and empires.
today, the city represents a dynamic bridge between its layered history and contemporary urban soul. this dual identity is deeply woven into its urban fabric as the ancient citadel overlooks a bustling metropolis with modern architectural masterpieces.
ankara citadel
the citadel is the true heart of the city that has seen it all. walking in and around its walls feels like wandering through history.
while nobody knows exactly who laid the first stone, history points to the hittites, the first superpower of anatolia, or the phrygians, the legendary kingdom of king midas.
later, it even served as a stronghold for the galatians, a celtic tribe from europe that came to anatolia and made ankara their capital. over the centuries, it was reinforced and used by the persians, romans, byzantines, seljuks, and ottomans.
just outside the gates, the timber-framed historic hans (inns) served as the motels and malls for centuries. pilavoglu han and pirinç han are the go-to spots to see local artisans at work or to simply enjoy a coffee break in tastefully decorated cafés.
the area is also home to some of most impressive museums in turkey. located in a restored 15th-century ottoman bazaar (bedesten), museum of anatolian civilizations is holds artifacts ranging from the paleolithic era to the hittites, literally featuring a timeline of human history.
modern icons
ankara is a great canvas of modern architecture with bold geometric forms and monumental scale. anıtkabir, atakule and cso ada are the prime examples of modern architecture and definitive icons of the city.
since its completion in 1953, anıtkabir is the most famous urban landmark of the capital. designed by architects emin onat and orhan arda as a mausoleum complex for mustafa kemal atatürk, it is a masterpiece of blending ancient anatolian motifs with modern monumentalism.
as the main component of the complex, the hall of honor is a temple-like structure opening to a vast ceremonial square. the complex also features a pedestrian path with 24 hittite-style lions as well as a lush green belt containing tens of thousands of trees gifted from dozens of nations.
alongside anıtkabir, atakule is another prime example of modern architecture. its 125-meter-tall observation tower has defined the city's silhouette since 1989. designed by architect ragıp buluç, the tower provides a full 360-degree view of the city while its base houses one of the city's most iconic retail spaces.
there is also a green terrace that hosts various events, offering a great city view and a comfortable seating area. as a vertical landmark, atakule remains a constant north star for anyone navigating the streets of ankara.
lastly, cso ada ankara is the new modern architectural pulse of the city, designed by uygur architects and completed in 2020. the campus is now home to the presidential symphony orchestra, one of the oldest musical institutions in the world.
the complex is made of three distinct geometric forms. ‘the egg’ is the main hall designed for massive symphonic performances, while ‘the sphere’ is the blue hall, an intimate space for chamber music.
and a massive, 40-meter-high glass prism foyer bridges the two halls, serving as a transparent meeting point. the main building is surrounded by reflecting pools which make the heavy concrete structure look like an island (ada in turkish).
different shades of green
ankara is often called a "grey city" yet there are beautiful green parks and pockets throughout the central districts that look particularly striking in autumn and winter.
dikmen valley is definitely my favorite one as the long green corridor running through the residential towers create a unique urban contrast.
there is also the botanical park that offers an amazing view of atakule. the hilly trails are perfect for enjoying views of the city, and there’s also a botanical café to wrap up a short walk with a tasty finish.
just a short walk away from the botanical park, kugulu park is probably the city's most famous meeting point. watching the swans casually gliding across the small pond in the heart of the city is truly a unique experience.
finally, gençlik parkı is one of the city's oldest and most iconic public parks, opened in 1943. famous for its massive central pool, this park offers a nostalgic escape for locals and visitors.
venues
Ankara’s food and drink scene covers everything from lively nights out to casual street food and quiet garden breaks.
my top spot is Afitap Meyhane Tunus to enjoy a traditional meyhane experience with delicious mezes and a great atmosphere. If you are looking for fine dining paired with live shows and music, venues like Deppo 29 and L'avare Sokak offer excellent food alongside good entertainment.
When it comes to quick local bites, Noyan'ca Köfte Kokoreç delivers a great street food experience, while Tante Rosa Coffee Garden is one my favourite places to relax with some coffee.